Learn more and join the fight to save Puerto Escondido here.
“No one’s going to want to hear this, but it’s mostly a closeout,” Shane Dorian said of Mexico’s most recognizable beachbreak. “Every now and then you get one that’s makeable. And you get these mind-expanding barrels.”
Make ratios be damned, Puerto Escondido has drawn surfers to those big, brown ovals off Playa Zicatela for five decades. If you’ve ever been keen to learn the wave’s rich history and the people who call it home (or just to watch remarkable tubes), look no further than Place of Thorns, a new documentary by the team at Now Now Media.
Photo: Edwin Morales
Produced by Alan van Gysen and Edwin Morales and directed and edited by Will Bendix, the film gives a stellar overview of the wave in front of Playa Zicatela, tracking from the town’s days as a fishing and coffee shipping port with one paved road to surfers’ early exploits there in the 1970s to becoming one of the most sought after and demanding big-wave spots in the world.
The film showcases some of the best and worst Puerto Escondido has to offer. There are some heroic makes by Greg Long and Nathan Florence. Then it pivots to a truly horrific scenario: Matt Bromley getting bashed in the skull by his 9’6” and being unable to get to shore in the rip. Haunting stuff. The filmmakers also give tribute to the local standouts and understaffed lifeguards.
Photo: Alan van Gysen
“The local crew’s got it dialed, man,” Dorian said. “Seeing their approach to how they attack the wave, how critical they get is just super impressive.”
But the larger narrative touches on an overarching problem of overdevelopment, an issue seen in surf communities around the globe. In a way, the wave has become a victim of its own success as the effort to accommodate the tourism influx ends up damaging the area’s natural resources. With unchecked development comes pollution and overwhelmed sewage systems, infrastructure the town was never meant to handle, Morales said.
Photo: Edwin Morales
As for the wave, a jetty on the northern end of the beach built in 1998 interrupted the beach’s sand cycle. The result is more sand on the beach and not in the lineup. Gradually, experts began to notice more closeouts and more waves breaking closer to shore.
“The magic still happens, but it’s fewer times of the year,” Coco Nogales said.
Related: The Battle to Protect One of Mexico’s Best Waves
Place of Thorns could make you feel many things. Excitement. Fear. Bewilderment. Sadness. The locals feel all those emotions, and despite its issues, they’re connected to Puerto Escondido through thick and thin.
“The wave is dying”, said Roxel Perez, a representative of Costa Unida and the Save The Waves Coalition, which is working with locals to halt development. “The plan now is to (try regulate development) using the law,” Perez said “But we need everyone’s help to save Puerto Escondido.”
Photo: Edwin Morales
The film is premiering in the United States at the Florida Surf Film Festival on June 14. There will be multiple screenings across the globe over the next few months. The Save The Waves Film Festival’s international tour will have screenings of the film on the following days. Locations are still TBD but will be announced here.
Punta Conejo, Mexico – June 12
Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica – July 5
Noosa, Australia – July 13
Gold Coast, Australia – July 13
Manly Beach, Australia – July 15
Santa Cruz, California – July 19 with O’Neill
Laguna Beach, CA – Confirming July 26 or August 1
***
Don’t miss another headline from SURFER! Subscribe to our newsletter, follow us on Instagram, and stay connected with the latest happenings in the world of surfing. We’re always on the lookout for amusing, interesting and engaging surf-related videos to feature on our channels.
Whether you’re a professional surfer or just an amateur, we want to see your best footage and help you share it with the world. Submit your video for a chance to be featured on SURFER and our social channels. Be sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel to watch high-quality surf videos.