Last week, Kai Lenny got eaten alive at Jaws during the Black Friday swell.
We watched and we cringed comfortably behind our screens.
Now, we get to hear what it was like.
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The Maui waterman captioned posted the clip above and captioned it:
“I had water dripping from my nose for days”
He narrates:
“What I’m about to show you is an example of waking up very violently in the morning. This is what I mean.”
It’s 6 a.m., Lenny’s at Jaws, the waves are huge.
He continues:
“I ended up doing a backside 360 and fading a little bit too much. It put me in a very compromised position where the entire ocean literally landed on my head.”
He asks, “What is it like getting rag-dolled underwater by a giant wave?
“Well, it feels like you got hit by a semi-truck and 10 guys with crowbars come out and beat you senseless all while you hold your breath.”
But Lenny goes out prepared with built-in airbags in his wetsuit.
And something else:
“Also, we have our guardian angels. Here’s my brother Ridge picking me up on the Sea-Doo.
“The foam is really deep and really hard for these machines to go through but fortunately, these are the best in the world. And right here, we’re actually trying to get my board to save it before going on the rocks.
“It’s a little bit of a roll of the dice doing what I’m doing here, but it’s worth not losing my board on the first wave of the day. I’m basically bear-hugging it underwater so it doesn’t get ripped out and get destroyed.”
Despite the beating, his ultimate goal was to “Get back to the channel, re-engage that airbag that’s in my wetsuit, and go surfing again.”
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