It was on a fateful surf trip last year that I made a friend by the name of Franco Sampogna. We were in Costa Rica together as part of an eclectic crew and little did I know what would come from the experience.
Franco’s life outside of this surf trip is really the point of the story, but it was getting to know him there that showed me a unique side of him, one that few get to know. See, Franco is the chef of the Michelin Star restaurant Frevo, in New York City, and the discipline, skill, and determination required to run such an operation is nothing short of astounding. By the grace of his generosity, I had the opportunity to dine at Frevo on a recent trip to New York and I don’t think I’ll ever be the same again…
Frevo
Amazing doesn’t even begin to explain it. Incredible. Divine. Immaculate. Perfection. Otherworldly. All of those are more suitable adjectives to describe the full dining experience at Frevo. To put it differently, “OMFG this place is insane”. I’ve been lucky to experience some fine dining in my life but I can safely say that Frevo topped them all. The space also doubles as an art gallery with a rotating selection of works featuring a new artist every 6 months.
Frevo
For the foodies out there, know this, it’s a prix fixe menu with some of the finest ingredients available anywhere, period. Masterfully prepared by a stellar crew of professionals operating under Franco and his partner Bernardo Silva’s watchful eyes. The kitchen hums quietly and in clear view of the limited 24 seats and delivers each course at the same time.
Frevo
I was in awe of the sheer coordination of it all–a far cry from anything I had ever seen–and then I realized it all made perfect sense given the type of person Franco is and those whom he attracts. The man is an absolute specimen of human standing at 6’3 and an athletic physique that puts pro surfers to shame. He’s a black belt in jiu-jitsu, speaks 3 languages (English, French, and Portuguese) and has multiple prestigious accolades to his name.
Frevo
Prestige aside, he’s a down to earth and humble guy. I saw this firsthand many times in Costa Rica but my favorite instances were with the local chefs that were there. As part of our trip we had two different chefs who prepared most of our meals. When each of them learned they were cooking for a Michelin Star chef from New York City, they were eager to connect and talk. Franco was kind and generous with his time and praise, often going into the kitchen after dinner to compliment the meal and their style–recognizing each of them for having an individual talent. For what’s it worth, both chefs thanked us for bringing them all together and that it was special to get to cook for and learn from a pro.
Franco Sampogna
Again, humble as could be, Franco said that it was always a pleasure to connect with people who are open, curious, and genuine because oftentimes, the world of elite chefs can involve a lot of arrogant figures–on both sides.
He told of his years working as a private chef in the south of France and in New York working for anonymous families that were so wealthy that seemingly nothing mattered and thus little was appreciated. Sometimes, after hours of preparing elaborate meals, they would change their minds and leave the food untouched or request something totally different.
As for other elite chefs, their prestige and status can often beget arrogance–a lack of curiousity rooted in the pompous assumption that they already know everything. They say that when one speaks, they are simply asserting that which they already know, yet, when you listen you can truly learn.
In addition to Frevo, Franco also creates the menu for a specialty airline, La Compagnie Business Class, which puts him in rotation alongside some of the world’s leading chefs. On the menu? Well, for starters there is the green asparagus with coconut mayo and pistachio cream followed by a potato and burrata cannelloni with lobster–or braised beef chuck with satay. Not exactly what you expect to find at 35,000 feet.
Frevo
When I asked Franco how he could have possibly come up with dishes like Frevo’s famous Smoked Kyoto Carrots, Almond Ice Cream, and Pickled Carrots? He smiled and said, “Sometimes a mistake leads to a discovery, you just have to be willing to learn from it and roll with it” as he laughed.
“Kind of like falling on a wave?”
“Exactly, you have to paddle back out and try again” he said with a wink and a pour from the tequila bottle.
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