Here’s a fun fact: one cubic foot water weighs 62.4 pounds.
So, when translated to big wave surfing, a 60-foot wave detonating on a surfer’s head would weigh about 3,744 pounds. That’s heavier than a 2024 Honda Civic.
Imagine falling on a wave, taking that beating, then being crushed by a four-door sedan.
That’s what Kai Lenny endured a few years back while surfing the world’s largest wave: Praia do Norte, Nazaré, in Portugal. And while the wipeout is a bit old – it happened back in 2020 – we’ve now got an inside look into what that feels like.
“When you’re going through a wipeout out there,” Kai narrates in the video above, “it’s almost hard to describe. It’s like getting hit by a semitruck, while holding your breath, and then getting beaten up by 15 guys with crowbars.”
The Maui-born big wave surfer continues:
“The entire time you have to relax. It’s the only way to preserve oxygen. Don’t kick, don’t swim – you’ve got an inflation vest. Just relax. But relaxing when the whole world is crumbling on top of you is a hard thing to do. So, that takes mental training, mental fortitude. That was 12 years of experience up to that point, trying to survive a moment like that.
“You reach a certain point where you can’t feel anymore. It’s just static. It’s like a TV that’s just static sound. There’s nothing really there. It’s just making that noise. That’s what it’s feels like. My eyes can’t see anymore, my ears can’t see anymore, my nerve endings can’t feel anymore – it’s all being pressed so hard. You go through the pain, and then you can’t feel anymore.
“It’s the consequence of riding these big waves. You gotta pay to play. I’ve gotten away with a lot.”
But after the flogging, Kai couldn’t help himself to go out and get a few more:
“I had the wipeout. I’ve trained my entire life for this. I wasn’t not going to go back out after that. If anything, it gave me confidence in myself that I can handle it. For the rest of the day, I got my better waves.”
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