“Surfing is my redemption. Every wave is for my father. And no one can stop someone who has something to say to the world — even with just a board.”
My Story
My name is Rudy Ghiara. I grew up in Varazze, a small coastal town in northern Italy. I started surfing at the age of 16.
The ocean has always been part of me — something inherited, something instinctive. I dedicate every wave I ride to my father, who passed away when I was just 4 years old. On my big wave vest, I wear the number 66 — the year he was born. That number keeps him with me, always.
Surfing gave me a path when I had none.
From this strange little artificial reef in Liguria, with passion, obsession and vision, I carved out a career as a free surfer — eventually reaching heavy-water destinations like Nazaré, Teahupo’o, Mavericks, Puerto Escondido, and the Hawaiian outer reefs.
Coming from Italy, where the swell is rare and the culture even rarer, nothing about this journey was easy. But when you truly believe in something, you can build your own road.
And today, being featured in Surfer Magazine — that’s a deep honor.
Local Scene and Surf Culture in Varazze
Varazze is home. It’s where I started, where I built my identity.
The surf scene here has always been core — raw and real. When I first got into it, there were only four or five people my age in the water.
But now, things are changing. More young people are picking up boards, and that gives me hope.
Still, with the growing crowd comes a loss of culture: lack of respect for the lineup, for the spot, for the ocean itself.
Many don’t know the rules, the history, the codes that make surf communities work.
Growing up a surfer in Italy is like wanting to be an astronaut with no sky. But I did it. I built an invisible trajectory, one that was mine alone. And now, even those who doubted are paddling with me.
This is why I wanted to do this interview — my first one about home — hoping the message will land: we need more surf education, more respect, more depth.
And we need to pass that on, especially in places like this.
Related: Dylan Graves Surfs Clean, Overhead Waves in … Italy?
The Wave at Home
My home break is an artificial reef that formed by accident — but when the swell hits just right, it turns into a hidden gem.
Perfect A-frames, both rights and lefts. Ideal for performance surfing: turns, barrels, and flow. It’s technical, not brutish — but when it turns on, it’s world-class.
Over the years, the swell consistency has dropped. But when it happens… it’s magic.
The Epic Swell
This one was special. I had just come back from a heavy session at Nazaré. Then, the charts lit up — and for once, they pointed to home.
A couple stormy days came first. Then it all lined up: 2.5 meters at 13–14 seconds, offshore winds, sunny skies. For Italy? That’s gold.
I woke up in the dark, and the waves were already thundering on the shore.
At first light I paddled out — and the session was insane: tubes, power turns, perfection. I surfed until noon, took a short break, then got back in until sunset.
Surfing at home, where it all began, after chasing bombs around the world… It’s priceless.
There are no crowds yelling at you, no pecking order politics. Just your rules, your ocean, your freedom.
The next couple of days, the swell dropped, but the sun stayed — and we wrapped it all up with nothing but smiles.
Waves I’ll Never Forget
There were a few waves from that swell that I’ll carry forever.
When you grow up in a place, you know every movement of the water. I was in perfect position when a set of around 8 feet rolled through.
I took off on a 5’9, made the drop, deep bottom turn, slight stall, then two fast backside barrel sections with a clean spit-out at the end.
A dream that came true.
Looking Ahead
When I started paddling into big waves, there was no real path to follow — at least not from Italy. The only ways that seemed possible required huge resources, complex logistics, or a life already built overseas.
But I wasn’t born in Hawaii. I didn’t have a jet ski or a team behind me. I was just a kid from the Mediterranean with a deep connection to the ocean and a vision that didn’t make sense to most people around me.
That’s why, for me, every wave I’ve surfed represents more than just a moment — it’s a message. A message that you don’t need to be born in the “right place” or have everything figured out. You can start from where you are, with what you have, and still find your way into the world’s heaviest lineups.
If my story has helped others believe that, then it’s all been worth it.
I wasn’t just chasing waves — I was chasing a life that didn’t exist yet, at least not where I was born.
And by building it from scratch, I proved that geography doesn’t define destiny.