Pipeline, as a wave, is one of (if not the) most dangerous waves in the world. When it’s on, it’s heavy, it’s historically deadly, and it breaks over a shallow, super sharp reef. Then, of course, there’s the crowd – which adds a whole new element of peril.
To get a good wave at Pipeline takes work. First, one must be a very good surfer; then, they must muster the courage to scrap into a bomb; and lastly, they must contend with the notoriously congested lineup, and somehow luck into one amidst the masses. A few surfers have mastered this difficult dance, including locals Jamie O’Brien, Mason Ho, and Lucas Godfrey. And on a recent JOB podcast, they discussed the difficulties of Pipe.
Related: Ever Wonder What the Deadly Reef at Pipeline Looks Like? Watch This.
First off, it takes time to earn a spot in the lineup. Like, for example, Mike Ho, Mason’s dad, who at 66 years old, is still charging Pipe and Backdoor. And when he paddles out, he gets whatever wave he wants. The lineup just sits back and admires.
“What’s cool,” says JOB, “when Uncle Mike paddles out, everyone knows. Right when a wave comes in, everyone’s going, ‘Go Uncle Mike!’ He’s got that rite of passage. He’s put in so much time. A right comes in, we see it, and we’re like, ‘Go Mike.’ Then he gets the most insane barrel, the whole beach goes electric…insane.”
“Sometimes, I just wanna watch him,” adds Godfrey. “I just know he deserve it.”
Related: Gallery: A Bird’s-Eye View of Pipeline and Beyond
The next thing? Passion, dedication, commitment. A wave like Pipeline requires a lifelong loyalty – that is, if one wants to attempt any level of mastery, and earn that coveted spot in the lineup. JOB continued:
“I remember asking Derek [Ho], ‘you’re making it so much harder for me to keep doing what I wanna do, because the legacy your living, makes it hard for me to match it. And he goes, ‘it’s the passion.’ Every time I looked out at Pipeline, and I thought I was on it, I saw Derek Ho. He was already down there. I thought I was living it. But he was on it.”
Pipeline, not for the faint of heart.
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