The long summer slumber for the North Shore is nigh.
But before the ocean goes flat for a few months, and surfers seek elsewhere for waves, there was one final swell to end the season with a bang at the end of March.
And with Pipeline turning on for one last time, there were plenty of twists and turns (read: wipeouts) during the season finale of the world’s most dangerous wave.
By most accounts, the swell was a bit tricky to say the least. Per a vlog from Nathan Florence – who smacked his face on the reef during the swell, resulting in nine stitches – the swell came in with a super long period. That meant, rip currents and sneaker sets.
“It’ll look calm and flat,” Nate explained. “A 45-minute lull will trick you, and get you out there. Then a 10-foot mutated double-up will roll in full steam, rip current goes zero to 10, backwash, so dangerous. So many people have been caught, over the years, by that trick. You think it’s not big, then a mega set comes.”
Related: Freak Rip Currents Trap Pro Surfers in Hawaii (Video)
Speaking of danger, it’s been a bloody season on the North Shore, particularly at Pipe.
Numerous pro surfers were hospitalized due to wipeouts, including Joao Chianca, Eimeo Czermak, Kai Lenny, and Koa Rothman. In each case, the surfers whacked their heads on the reef, were knocked unconscious, and spent some time drydocked to recover.
As a result, many more helmets were donned than – quite possibly – ever before.
Will they continue into the future? Or will folks, as they do, quickly forget? Stay tuned to find out on the next season, hitting YouTube and social media this fall/winter.
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