Why Gerry Lopez Encourages Surfers to Be Kooks…in Yoga

“If it’s not the right time, it’s just not going to happen,” says timeless Hawaiian style icon Gerry Lopez, who shaped surfing even more than he shaped surfboards (and that was a lot). Lopez revolutionized the way Pipeline was ridden, acted in major Hollywood films, explored unknown coastlines and was among the most influential surfers to adopt the yogic lifestyle in the 1970s.

You’ve heard of Bikram Yoga? Lopez knew Bikram, being deeply involved in yoga for nearly five decades.

Lopez found yoga at the University of Hawaii in 1968. And for the first 25 years, he mostly practiced alone, learning from books, simply because there weren’t yoga studios and classes on the coasts where he spent his time. There weren’t many in the world, period. 

On a recent March afternoon from Baja, he explained how he dedicated himself to the practice, complete with his philosophies, anecdotes and a signature giggle that makes him surfing’s eternally likeable statesman.

And to some extent, the surfing world caught up. It’s been over two decades since Taylor Knox and Rochelle Ballard put out the DVD Yoga for Surfers. Mick Fanning had a yoga ball at WCT events in 2008. Slates has been talking about yoga since somewhere between his sixth and seventh world title. Patagonia made a whole movie about the yin of Lopez’ razor-wire aggressive surfing compared to the yang of his yoga mindfulness.

After 50 years of trying to show those around him the benefits of yoga, Lopez understands why still so few have become devotees of the practice.

“With surfing, it’s a little easier,” he explains, “You get that first ride and you get hooked. With yoga, it’s a process. For a long time, nothing really happens.”

Though they weren’t friendly in later years when Bikram left the US following some very messy allegations, Lopez gives Bikram a lot of credit for the style of yoga that he presented to western culture. The Bikram style basically went through the same 26 poses in a 105-degree room. It was perfect for those of the west who want to see tangible results. If you continued to practice, you can see progress.

While Lopez explains that all manner of yoga classes can produce results, he feels that surfers – male surfers in particular – get lost in flow during their first few classes. He tells a story of filming the 1982 feature “Conan the Barbarian,” which he starred in with Arnold Schwarzenegger.

“Arnold, Frank McCrae and I were hanging around waiting to start production and Schwarzenegger suggested they take an aerobics class,” he recalls.

“All the girls in Lycra are ogling Arnold, but we were total spazzes when it came to the aerobics. We didn’t know what was going on. It’s kind of the same reason that a lot of guys have a hard time getting into yoga. Their girlfriend or wife will say ‘yeah, this class is really great.’ And they’ll go, but it’s too fast and they don’t really learn the poses too well.”

Lopez explains that the vinyasa sequences are too fast for first timers. Even fit surfers can’t keep up. And that’s where another big factor comes in – the ego.

Gerry explains: “There’s a little bit of ego in the western mentality when it comes to something like this. With a surfer at yoga, their girlfriend isn’t only better, but the guys are a step behind. It’s one of the main reasons they try one or two classes and go ‘Nah, this isn’t for me.’ That’s the thing with yoga – it’s a long, hard road.”

In other words: after dedicating so much time and reaching a certain competency in the ocean, surfers don’t want to feel like a beginner in another element.

“Being a kook is okay,” laughs Lopez, “Sometimes that’s hard for surfers to swallow.”

He explains that as our bodies age, we retain less moisture, which makes us more susceptible to getting hurt. And most sport-related injuries are joints.

“Ankles, knees, hips, shoulders… those are the key areas that yoga targets to maintain that flexibility that’s necessary if you want to continue with an athletic lifestyle,” says Lopez.

He points out the way young surfers’ egos often grow faster than their talent. But it’s something that Lopez sees as limiting in the long run.

“Ego gets in the way with surfing. But if you can stick with yoga, you’ll be able to let go of that ego, quicker, in fact, than you can with surfing,” he explains.

“In order to surf successfully, you have to be focused,” says Lopez. “When you decide to catch a wave, you spin around, and you paddle for it. You are completely, absolutely, totally focused. And if you aren’t, you’re going to blow it – miss the wave, fall on the take-off or blow the first turn. You’ve got to be focused. It’s a meditative state of mind. But, in order to get to that level of focus in yoga, it takes a really long time. You’re trying to clear your mind and get into that zen space. That’s one of the beautiful things about surfing – you can get to that state of mind that all the yogis are working toward in an instant.”

Lopez explains that there are five basic tenets to the yogic lifestyle – the poses, the breathing, proper relaxation, proper diet and positive thoughts/meditation. He points out that the healthy living aspect has only been a part of surfing for the last few decades, whereas it’s been aligned with yoga for millennia.

Gerry is still practicing yoga and still surfing, at age 75, with amazing flexibility.

“I hear a lot of people looking at yoga and saying, ‘I can’t do that,’” he says. “Ok, but there are poses that you can do. Everyone has flexibility somewhere in their body. You’ve just got to find it. You’re not trying to get your body into the pose. You’re using that pose to get into your body.”