The paradoxical phrase, “slow down to speed up,” is a cliche found in self-help books and motivational speeches. But in the case of surfing 10-foot-plus gliders, it’s a mindset that’s essential to adapt to unlock a truly profound feeling on a different type of surf craft.
The Glory of the Glide, a short documentary video directed, written, produced and edited by Beth O’Rourke, pays homage to these boards, which are traditionally over 10 feet long, flat as a coffee table and remarkably fun in small waves. The film focuses on a crew of San Diego surfers and shapers who laud the attributes of these large planks of foam. Specifically, on days when you might turn your back on the ocean, these boards will trim across the wave with a momentum and force that is entirely different from anything in your current quiver.
These boards aren’t a cure-all. A connecting thread from all the testimony is that the gliders are tricky to master. They require patience, subtle movements and timing. However, when it comes together, the speed and momentum generated in small, unremarkable surf will surprise you. Sections are linked, waves are made, and the rail powers you down the line.
“You’re just standing there, but there’s a lot more to it than standing there,” said Skip Frye, the masterful San Diego surfer and shaper who has been riding these designs for 35 years. “You have to be in the right place on the wave, and real subtle movements going up and down. It’s a lot more subtle in the way you operate than in the modern-day moves or standard shortboard moves.”
“These boards really make you look at how you’re surfing and how you’re connecting waves,” said Erin Ashley. “Everything you’re doing, especially your rail work. And how every little movement makes more of a difference than the big movement.”
“The reason I ride these boards? I just like the simplicity of them,” said Devon. “You remove all the performance. Noseriding, hitting the lip, which I love to do, but it’s nice to take a break, step back and just trim.”