I remember the first neurologist I saw after my concussion,” Albee Layer said. “I told him, I’ve had many concussions surfing, and this one’s by far the worst. It happens in big waves. He’s like, ‘Just don’t surf big waves.’ And I was like, no. That’s not an option. Give me something else.”
If there’s a quote that sums up Albee’s determination/obsession to do what he loves, that’s it. Albee’s reflections come from a new video with Rockstar Energy in which the pioneering Maui surfer reflects on some of the highs and lows of his career.
What sets this video apart is that it showcases the bleak depths Albee went to after his injury. Most surf content in 2025 focuses on the high notes, and it’s easy for pro surfers to talk themselves up and show how great their lifestyle is. It’s much harder to reveal the dark side and the ugly, painful work of working through a bad cycle.
“The two or three years after that was the worst I got at partying,” Albee said of the time period after his horrific concussion during the 2019 Jaws contest. “Because I was in a lot of pain mentally and reaching for that stuff was something that numbed me. I was not myself a lot of the time. Depression, I had full mental breakdowns at times. It got to the point where I wanted to hurt myself. It was bad.”
During these difficult years, Albee got treatment and sought help from other people who’d gone through head injuries, including former big-wave world record holder Shawn Dollar. The Santa Cruz surfer shared a mantra that helped Albee gain some self-awareness and put his issues into context: “It’s an injury, it isn’t you.”
Related: Albee Layer Savors Jaws Swell Bender In ‘Less Than Easy’
These days, Albee is more grounded and appreciative of his surfing, his friends and his mental health than ever. He hopes that sharing the difficulties in his life may help someone else going through hard times. His friends know how influential Albee can be, whether it’s nudging them into a set wave or changing the progression of big-wave surfing and aerial maneuvers.
“Albee was about two years younger than all of us,” said his lifelong friend and sparring partner Matt Meola. “But he charged harder than everybody and he was always trying to surf these crazy waves. I feel like he’s still that same guy. Honestly, a lot of the heavy waves we’ve surfed in our career, those sessions wouldn’t have happened without Albee motivating everyone and telling everybody it’s possible.”
Related: Big-Wave Surfers Go On a 5-Day Jaws Bender (Gallery)